(Roanoke, Virginia, USA)
My 2 problems? Jump rings and glue! HELP!! I have tried everything to make sure my jump rings and other connectors are sturdy and reliable. Nonetheless, they are still not good enough.
I don’t know how to solder yet, but surely there must be something nearly as solid.
I’ve used oval jump rings as once suggested, and I use the heaviest gauge rings I can find.
I’ve even tried hardening them by hammering them on a steel block.
But, my pieces still break every once in a while when I wear them out for a “test drive.”
Not every item, and not every time. But, often enough for me to be afraid to sell them. HELP!
Secondly, I am at my wits end over glue. I make a lot of pieces with cabochons and settings. The cabochons fall off too frequently for me to feel confident about selling these types of designs.
I’ve used everything from 2-ton epoxy to super glue. I sand all surfaces to be glued, but that doesn’t work either.
I have studied jewelry design for almost two years with as much commitment, enthusiasm and perseverance as someone like a musician studies guitar.
My studio is running over with gorgeous creations I’m too afraid to sell. I welcome any and all advice and possible solutions.
No worries …
I feel like you must not have been able to find what are really considered heavy gauge jump rings (16-19 gauge). I only use sterling silver, so I am going to give you a link to the supplier I swear by. I, too, hate the idea of my jewelry coming apart. Even though I am a silversmith, I do not solder every piece of jewelry … it just depends.
When I do not want to solder, I turn to my seriously heavy duty sterling silver jump rings. You pretty much need pliers to open and shut them. The only caveat is that they do not fit in itty bitty chain links because they are thicker.
Anyhoo, here is the link to the products on Artbeads:
For those very tiny loops or holes in small linked chain, you can always use split rings (which are just mini key chain rings). They can be found at:
rings and glue
by: Nancy VanTassell
I’ve recently starting using the ‘locking’ jumprings from artbeads:
I haven’t had any issues with them. A heavier gauge wire may be the trick for you.
For glue, the only luck I have is what I call ‘the stinky glue’… ES6000. The stuff just WORKS…
I’m coming unglued
E-6000 for everything!!!! Have never had it fail yet in over 15 yrs. Be sure that you clean your finding well before gluing. Most findings, like raw brass, have a residue left over from the manufacturing process. I use rubbing alcohol to clean my pieces. Washing them in dish washing detergents should work as well. Just be sure that everything is dry before you glue.
Hope this helps!!
by: pat barden
i use 20.5 and 22 ga on my necklaces and lariats–for the clasps and the bracelets i use 18 or 19ga–ive had one bracelet broke cuz of its getting hooked on a dog kennel latch–and one lariat cuz it got hooked on a lawn mower–ive sold at least 200 lariats and 50 bracelets.
ihave noticed that the fusionbead.com has much sturdier jump rings-as swell as head pins–than the firemountian.
once to gethe over 50 item discount i bought my silver j rings and h pins from fire mtn–never agane–the same gauge i get from fusion–but they were much softer.
istick withe fusion beads now
by: Lyn Owen
I second the E6000 glue. I’ve tried all manner of epoxy glues for my fused glass pieces and this really does go the distance. And some of my pieces have a LOT of glass and weight in them. A bit stinky but great stuff!!
I’ve used split rings if I’ve had concerns about things holding AND I’ve even used two jump rings for extra security. However, I love the advice from others here about the guage they use.
I have another idea to maybe get you past that worry about things breaking (once you’ve worked out all reasonable causes) Put some kind of ‘warranty’ on your work. If it breaks (within a reasonable amount of time and wear) you will fix it for no charge. At least if you are doing market stalls you could always have a small repair kit for instant repairs. Just offering that service could be good for business!
Stick with this!
by: Dianne Culbertson
Sometimes the strength of the glue is not as important as the substances you are gluing together. I use only e-6000 and Hypo cement. E6000 is key for cabs as many have advised. That being said I always glue my cabs down first and then bead up over them using peyote stitch so they are firmly attached not only to the backing but also the piece I am putting the cab on. As far as jump rings I have been making and selling jewelry for over 5 years now and have never had an issue. I use mostly sterling and 14K gold filled but also base metals on occasion. As long as twist them until they “click” I have been good to go. It is hard to know really what to suggest without some photos of what you are doing. Could you give us a couple?
Glued Jump rings?
by: Patricia C Vener
I usually either make my own jump rings (from scrap Argentium Sterling Silver) or purchase them from Rio Grande. If you are using an appropriately stiff metal the rings should stay closed. I almost never glue anything. Occasionally I’ll glue knots if I’ve repaired someone’s strung work.
I do use GS Hypo Cement for gluing rhinestones. E6000 is toxic so unless you’re working outside it’s best to avoid the fumes.
That’s all I can think of offhand.
Because I do some chainmaille, if you don’t work in gold or silver, I’d recommend stainless steel rings in 18 or 19ga.
An answer for your Cabochons
I ran into the same situation when gluing stones I had gathered and fashioned from our own Great Lakes of MI. When I had no other option I would grind the stones and shape them and then my husband would either drill a hole at the top for me to attach a pinch bail or I would have to use a glue on bail. But I was able to take a class in Wire Wrapping and learned how to make my own “support system” frame for my stone cabochons. I have been very happy and successful and feel totally confident in selling my stone wraps and their security in being held tight without any glue at all. If there isn’t a class located close to you to learn how to do that,..there is always an instruction video on youtube to learn how to do it to some extent. Blessings to you in your jewelry creations!
Bead Woven bezels
by: Patricia C Vener
I contain all my cabochons with bead weaving. It hasn’t failed me yet. I use combinations of Peyote Stitch, Right Angle Weave, bead netting, and chevron stitches.
I’m beginning to think I can do it all with needle, thread, and seed beads (of various sizes).
Jump rings and glue
by: Jane Jennings
I also love my e-6000 glue, but would caution you to let it set up for at least 2-4 days before being confident of it’s strength.
I used to be just as concerned about the jump ring issue, But find that using a heavier gauge, 18 is good, really helps. Also, makie sure the ends are cut to fit flush against each other. Wiggling them back and forth a few times before closing, then clamping the flat nose pliers on them helps to harden them without hammering.
If the heavier gauge doesn’t fit thru delicate wire, I would use lighter weight wire, and wire wrap a loop for a connection.
Glue This to That
I use this site, http://www.thistothat.com/, to determine the right glue for the right situation. The correct type of glue depends on what materials you’re gluing together. I use a 2 part expoxy which comes in 2 separate syringes with 1 plunger so you get the right ratio. I also like Barge cement for gluing stones to a textile/fabric. Most jewelry artists seem to use E6000 and I do sometimes but I find it too thick for my usual situations.
I have used e-6000 for gluing everything including glass.I use it for putting bails on cabs,EVERYTHING! Yes,it has a strong smell but there is no need to do your gluing outside.Just have a little fan blowing or windows open if possible.It turns into a rubber like substance once it is dried and if you see any strings of it left behind it is easy to just peel the excess off.I use no other glue.
Just checking the jump ring issue
Hi. Playing devil’s advocate here: when you open your jump rings to use them, you twist them open sideways so they look like part of a spiral, right? If you’ve been opening them so they look like a flat letter “C”, you can be kinking the opposite side of the jump ring. And even if you use sterling, opening them the wrong way can make them brittle. Just throwing that in there..
glue and rings
After a long search I only use jump rings from urbanmaille.com (follow their tutorial on how to close them for a tight fit) and 3M DP-420 adhesive.
by: Terri W
Another open to connecting your pieces would be to use a 22 g or heavier headpin to create a wrapped loop on each end. Connect each piece to an end and then finish the wrap. Your pieces will not fall apart with this method.
I also use E6000 – works like a charm.
Clamping & E6000
I “Third” the use of E6000. I was instructed to clean, glue and clamp my work and not touch it for 24 hours. If I do that, the bond is very, very strong. If things are too large to clamp, I try to set them UNDER something heavy. This assures a good close fit so the glue can glue 🙂
For jump rings, I have the same dang problem, I have bought some Zap a Gap which is a type of gap-filling super glue which I’m going to try. I open my rings correctly and have bought some stronger ones and I am going to fix this problem!!! It’s a pain, I know. Good luck.
by: Body Jewelry
I have had similiar problems with my barrettes and tried many things. Right now I am also making necklaces with cabochon adornments and went through 3 different glues to find what worked. I was gluing birds onto a tree charm that only has branched to attach it to, so I needed something good.What finally worked? Gorilla Glue. I almost glued my fingers together. I wanted to attach an image so you could see but I can’t firgure out how. Anyway, I swear by it. Good luck.
jump ring tip
If I can’t get a jump ring to line up completely flush, I sometimes add a drop of clear nail polish over the join. This prevents threads from snagging on the jump ring.
I make my own picture cabochons using glass cabs and then gluing them to the picture. I use Judi Kins Diamond Glaze as a glue. I even use this to glue the cabs into the metal setting. It is the only thing I have found for this kind of cab that does not harm the picture.
As far as gluing metal to metal you need an epoxy just for metal.
Hope this helps
glue for jewelry
Beware you gluers. I have a pair of opal triplet earings set in 14k gold. Shortly after purchase they began growing a cloud ring. An opal jeweler told me it was because chemical glue was used. He said they only use water based glue, weldbond, and have been for years. It is available at ace.