by Robby.
(Western Australia)
I have threaded my Tiger Eye, Larva and Citron necklace many times, only to have it break many times.
Have used double strand Tiger Wire.
The weight is 390g.
Should I be using wire to individually wire each bead together?
As you probably can tell I’m a novice.
Robby
Hi Robby, where is your necklace breaking? Is the beading wire actually breaking? And if so, where is it breaking – between the beads, or next to the crimp beads?
Or is it that the jump rings are pulling open so the necklace falls apart?
Robby, if the holes in your beads are large enough, try “stringing” your necklace with 18 or 16 gauge brass wire. Divide the beads into, say, 4 groups, and use 4 pieces of wire, connected with jump rings. Make a loop at one end of each wire, put the beads on in whatever order you wish, and keep them in place with a loop at the other end of the wire. Then connect each group with one or more jump rings. If the loops ever seem to be coming open, just hammer them gently, to stiffen the wire a little. Best wishes!
Love the necklace, Robby! I had the same problem stringing magnetic necklaces because they were really heavy. Tiger tail just didn’t do. I discovered that AccuFlex came in different strand sizes and went to the workhorse, the 49 strand. I double-crimped at each end. It wasn’t a permanent solution for me, because the rough hemalyte would eventually rub away at the crimp ends, but the necklaces were probably worn night and day and couldn’t be expected to last forever. Some people even wore them in the shower! I’ve quite making them because I spent more time restringing old necklaces than I did making new ones but the AccuFlex was the best solution.
So you have some options:
If the necklace is too heavy for a 49 strand wire like AccuFlex, it wouldn’t be good for the neck of the wearer! Maybe shorten the necklace or use something lighter as a design element.
Do something similar to the comment above – string sections on an 18 gauge brass or silver wire and connect with wrapped loops and/or jump rings.
In some ways it’s a good problem to have, because the weight means you’re using real stones. It’s annoying to order gemstones that arrive and you know darned well from the feel and the weight that they’re mostly plastic.
Best of luck!
Most stones I work with are quite heavy, so I use Beadalon 49 strand .24in/64mm cord . Most large beads have holes that will accept this size cord.
Hi – also had that problem so I started stringing with c-lon and tuff cord. That also gives me the option of knotting between some or all beads. To finish I use oval jump rings. I tie a clove hitch and then two half hitches (look for instructions on Internet – I learned because that’s the knot I used to tie my sailboat to the dock!) Then I glue with hypo-cement and put a 4 or 5 mm crimp cover over the knot to hide it. I’ve been doing some heavy pieces like this for a couple of years now – no failures and no issues. Don’t use silk thread – it stretches and frays.
Hello,
I have heavy necklaces I made and have been wearing for years with no breakage. 49 strand stainless steel beading wire in .024 inch width works like a charm. I double crimp the ends. You can also use wire protectors (sometimes called cradles or thimbles) around the ends of the wire where the clasp goes. This keeps friction from occurring on the wire. I hope this helps!
Val
Weight of gems can be a real problem for the wearer, too. Since hair covers the back of the neck usually you might use 4-6 inches of chain at the ends (2-3 inches on each end) to decrease the weight. Another suggestion is to use eye pins for each bead and join the “eyes” instead of having a solid strand of beads touching each other. Of course it’ll take more time to make the necklace but you won’t have to be concerned about breakage and connecting the clasp. No problems with fraying from wear and tear either. Good luck with whatever method you use. Alice
Hi Rodney!
Always feel free to ask jewelry making questions. We all have questions all the time.
About stringing heavy beads, try using chain as is used in Squash blossoms. Here is a link to that: .monsterslayer.com/Pages/BaseMetalChain/BaseMetalChain.aspx When you are at the end of the stringing and ready for your clasp of choosing use a split ring. Here is a link for that: .artbeads.com/jewelry-supplies/silver-split-ring/
Both of the suppliers are very helpful and will answer questions, gladly.
Raven
You could also convert the design to a rosary style chain where each stone has a wire wrap that connects to the next stone. This is strong but will add quite a bit of length, so you will likely need to cut back on some of the lava stones as well.
Oh my gosh, this was exactly the same info I had asked for a few issues back, but was told to try “fishing line.” I cannot wait to buy the. .49 stainless steel beading wire.
I too love natural, super heavy, enormous beads. I appreciate all the tips given here.
I solved the “heavy bead” problem by doubling Beadalon’s 7-strand wire. The holes drilled in semi-precious stones are large enough to accommodate both wires and the stiffness helps the necklace keep its shape. I do a lot of choker length pieces and prefer the rounded look without much “drop.” I use crimp beads at each end and cover those with Sterling silver rondelles to make a nice finish. Haven’t had a necklace break yet.
I highly recommend 49 strand SoftFlex or SoftTouch beading wire. They have the best drape and flexibility of any wire out there. I have never had a necklace break in the many years I have been using these wires.
I string mostly heavy beaded necklaces and use the 49 strand beading wire in the .024 inch diameter, double crimp (using crimp covers) and attach directly to the clasp (not with a jump ring). I also check the clasp and file the inside of the ring if it is rough or you can use a wire guard or wire protector like this
firemountaingems.com/search/wire_protectors