Comments on: How to Prevent Scratches on a Steel Bench Block?

By: Barbara Jacquin

Barbara Jacquin — Tue, 20 Sep 2016 13:01:27 +0000

Why not mark one side “good” and the other “bad” with a permanent marking pen like the pens used to write on CDs. Also, store the block carefully to avoid scratches, even in a box or a cloth bag.

By: carl charette

carl charette — Thu, 30 Jun 2016 02:10:52 +0000

I use two blocks; one for pieces where scratches don’t matter and the other block I got from Rio Grande Metal and Jewelry Supplies in Albuquerque that has the highest hardness rating (50+) in their inventory which I use for my best work.

By: Dianne Haselfeld

Dianne Haselfeld — Tue, 28 Jun 2016 16:52:24 +0000

So glad I asked this question. Wish I had done so before I started using my block. I appreciate all the suggestions and information. It’s great that the members of this site are so willing to share their expertise. Thanks to Rena for getting us all together.

By: Colleen

Colleen — Tue, 28 Jun 2016 14:50:56 +0000

Thanks for all the good advice ladies! I also heard you should buy a good heat tempered block, I guess this makes the steel harder and less likely to nick. My blocks are getting to be a mess, but so far it’s ok because I distress a lot of my pieces. I’ll have to look into the YouTube lesson on how to rebuff my block.

By: Alesha Steinke

Alesha Steinke — Tue, 28 Jun 2016 13:24:14 +0000

Cover one side your block with blue painters tape. I keep one side of my block nice and one side is scratched up. The painters tape keep the steel hammers from marring the surface and keeps it scratch free from other things also the bright color lets me know which side is the “good” side. Also you can remove the tape and use the block with out any sticky residue.

By: Catherine Franz

Catherine Franz — Tue, 28 Jun 2016 13:14:41 +0000

If you are hammering an edge of the metal, place the edge next to the edge of the steel block — this reduces dings.

If you use too big a hammer for what you using it for, this too makes dings.

I repolish my steel block, sometimes called rebuffing, ever few months before I improved my hammering. Check youtube for videos on proper hammer techniques and rebuffing. I found some great ones there. I also took a class in hammering (and I never thought it would help but it did immensely)(I had to get past my ego of already thinking I knew it because I’ve been making jewelry for a lot of years.

Also the brand you purchase makes a difference. I taught jewelry making at Michaels for 5 years and there’s is really cheap. I used to purchase a new one every 6 months there; however, I also used the old ones to purposely use to use as a texturing device. That is until I learned on youtube how to refinish them. Now I refinish whenever needed and I also have various difference brands/kinds, including a railroad block which I have never refinished in 8 years I’ve had it. I now have five and each one has its purpose.

By: Coleen

Coleen — Tue, 28 Jun 2016 12:11:12 +0000

Great question! I’ve also wondered about that. I have heard that you can take it to a metal shop and they can grind it flat….but I haven’t done it myself. It seems we should be able to fix it ourselves

By: Rena Klingenberg

Rena Klingenberg — Tue, 28 Jun 2016 09:38:46 +0000

Hi Dianne, before I hammer anything on my steel block, I use a soft cloth to wipe the surface of the steel block and both sides of the jewelry item, to remove any dust, grit, etc. that may scratch the jewelry or the block. I have also heard of artists keeping one side of their steel block for hammering things that need a perfectly smooth surface, and the other side for things that don’t need to be as perfect (such as textured pieces). Can you buff out the scratches with fine steel wool?