https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+make+alcohol+ink+with+sharpies&oq=how+to+make+alcohol+ink&aqs

Hi.
If this link is faulty, just google “how to make DIY alcohol paint”. I first saw it made with Sharpie pens.

You can crack open a permanent marker, get the inside out and let it soak in isopropal(sp?) alcohol (like one cup) overnight it makes decent alcohol ink

Patti, thank you! 🙂

Dianne, I’ve been enjoying your colorful enamels. I think you’ll really love working with alcohol inks too!

It also had been recommended to me to use the sprays that you mentioned. I’m glad to read before using them that they didn’t work for you. I won’t bother with them then. Thank you for your insight.

I got my Tim Holtz alcohol ink on Amazon.

Amanda, Thank you for your lovely comment! 🙂

Hi Debra Mae! I think it should work. However, it might be important to seal it as I mentioned in the post.

Whenever you wonder whether a technique will work with a particular type of component, here’s the best thing to do:

First do a test run on a small scrap or sample of your component. Then you can see how the technique will (or won’t) work on the sample, without ruining your actual piece. Another benefit of doing the test run on a scrap first – you’ll probably discover some things about the technique that will help you get better results when you do the technique on your actual component!

If you do experiment with this, please let us know how it turns out! 🙂

Molly, great tip! Thanks so much for sharing. 🙂

Hi Molly, good question! I would experiment on one of your antiqued brass findings to see how it well it works and whether it comes off easily after drying.

Valarie, thank you so much for sharing your inspirations – something new to play with next time I use these techniques! 🙂

However, because it’s a gift, I’m concerned how the color will wear.

Above, someone mentioned heat. I warmed the piece with hot water as I do for LOS and let the ink dry overnight before I buffed off the surface color. Next piece, I’ll try a heat source, but I’m not clear on what to use.

Also, I have a can of spray used for protecting the finish on musical instruments. Any one have experience with that?

Hi Barbara, I’ve never had my alcohol inks dry out. I always put the caps back on the ink bottles right away, and keep them in a rubbermaid bin with a lid.

Debra, thanks for your lovely comment, and interesting to hear of using the inks on bisque porcelain! The watercolor look is something I’d like to explore.

Anna, you’re so welcome! You can use copper the same ways as I did with the brass – and have fun creating with colors!

Hi Jackie, I’ve never experimented with alcohol inks in enameled copper.

Whenever you wonder whether a technique will work with a particular type of component, here’s the best thing to do:

First do a test run on a small scrap or sample of your component (in this case, on a scrap of your enameled copper). Then you can see how the technique will (or won’t) work on the sample, without ruining your actual piece. Another benefit of doing the test run on a scrap first – you’ll probably discover some things about the technique that will help you get better results when you do the technique on your actual component!

If you do experiment with the alcohol inks, please let us know how it turns out!

And according to Ranger (the manufacturer of these inks), the best sealer is their “Ranger’s Gloss Multi-Medium” product.

Hi Amy, I recommend that you contact the manufacturer of these alcohol inks – their email address is info@rangerink.com . I’m not an expert on these inks; my tutorial here simply shares what I’ve done with them. 🙂

Hi Gwen! See my Metalwork Arrowhead Pendant Tutorial to see an example of how to cut the metal. Most major online jewelry suppliers carry metal sheet for jewelry making; I often purchase mine from Monsterslayer.com . Hope this helps, and I’d love to see what you make! 🙂

Thank you, Cynthia, and welcome to my newsletter! 🙂

Thanks for asking. The official recommendation from the maker of these inks is to use their own sealing product, Ranger’s Gloss Multi-Medium. (Source: http://rangerink.com/faq).

I hope this helps! ????

Hi Jill, thanks for asking! Near the end of this tutorial, under “Should You Seal Your Alcohol Inked Metal?” – I mentioned:

Here’s the official recommendation from the maker of these inks –
“Alcohol inks must be sealed with a water based sealer. We recommend Ranger’s Gloss Multi-Medium.” (Source: http://rangerink.com/faq.)

I hope this helps! 🙂

I know that most people won’t apply alcohol to their jewelry but I still am not happy with the results. I need something more protective on my pieces. Has anyone had better luck with another product? I’m afraid to continue working on my jewelry until I get this resolved.

Thanks for your help.

Jill

Misty, you can put the care instructions on the back of the jewelry tags and / or the back of your business cards. This post (and the comments below it) – Customer Service has some good suggestions related to this.

Hi Jo-Anne, thanks for asking. I think various brands of alcohol inks and alcohol ink markers may behave in different ways with resin. I would do a test run on a small scrap or sample of your component (in this case, using the ink on a scrap of copper and finishing it with the resin). Then you can see how the materials and technique will (or won’t) work on the sample, without ruining your actual piece. Another benefit of doing the test run on a scrap first – you’ll probably discover some things about the technique that will help you get better results when you do the technique on your actual component!

If you do experiment with the alcohol inks and resin, please let us know how it turns out!

Thanks for asking about Liquitex sealer, Lisa! I have never experimented with it on alcohol ink. Whenever you wonder whether a technique will work with a particular type of component, here’s the best thing to do:

First do a test run on a small scrap or sample of your component (in this case, on a scrap of the type of metal you’ll be inking). Then you can see how the technique will (or won’t) work on the sample, without ruining your actual piece. Another benefit of doing the test run on a scrap first – you’ll probably discover some things about the technique that will help you get better results when you do the technique on your actual component!

If you experiment with the Liquitex sealer, please let us know how it turns out!

Hi Evie, I remembered a post here on JMJ by Lynda Carson, where she used alcohol ink on aluminum:
Inks and Aluminum.

Also, did you try using a Q-tip or paint brush to swirl the alcohol ink around on your metal?

I have mainly used alcohol inks on brass and copper.

Hi Evie, I have not experimented with alcohol inks on aluminum. Could you tilt the aluminum blanks around to help the ink spread around a bit more? Another possibility is that you may need to rough-up the surface of your aluminum with some sort of texturing or even with sandpaper, so the ink has something to “grab” onto. You may want to experiment with that on a scrap of your aluminum that you don’t mind sacrificing if it doesn’t turn out well.

Hi Ruth, I think it’s just a matter of playing with the inks to see how they work, and seeing what kinds of effects you can create with them.

When the ink pools, it usually makes a deeper color on the finished piece. That can be a really nice effect. Or tilt the metal so that the pooled ink travels around in an interesting pattern.

If the Q-tip removes too much ink, try using a toothpick as your “paintbrush” instead. Or simply add more ink to the area where you removed too much color, and see what you can do with it.

Especially when you’re first using alcohol inks, it helps to just go with the flow and let designs happen, rather than have a pre-conceived design in mind and trying to create that.

Also, it’s a good idea to practice with your inks on metal scraps as I did, so you can get a feel for how your ink will behave.

Think of alcohol inks on metal as a color adventure! 🙂

Thanks for sharing that helpful tip, Sue! 🙂

Hi Janet! Yes, I’ve used it on copper with good results. And here are two examples of other jewelry artists using alcohol inks on copper:

Love Alcohol Ink!
My Introduction to Alcohol Inks and Metal

Gretchen, thank you so much for sharing this great tip! I appreciate it. 🙂

Nancy, as inventive as you are, you will have a ball with alcohol inks! 🙂 I can’t wait to see what you do with them!

The colors and the design on the smaller blank remind me of a water color technique I’ve often used. It is time to put this past experience to work with a new medium!

Thanks again.

I ditto everything you said about Rena’s tutorials…..they are the best I’ve ever come across. So sorry to hear of your husbands stroke. My Mom had two and yes it is important to keep them occupied. It will be frustrating for both of you but please stick with it. Mom was very talented and crafty before the second stroke, after the second one she lost a lot of dexterity. Try some water color painting, even if he has to use his fingers. The alcohol ink is easy to do and really engages the mind. He would have to hold the little bottle, but that might be good for the dexterity. Hope I didn’t come off as a know it all or to nosey. I just wanted to share. Good luck to your husband and his recovery!!

~Cheryl

Hi Judi! Thanks for asking. I actually made my own metal blanks from brass sheet and textured the larger one using the sharp end of one of my hammers – you can see how I did it in this tutorial: Easy Riveted Pendant Tutorial.

It’s actually quite easy and gives you more creative control over the size and shape of your pendant blanks!

Alternatively, you could purchase pre-made pendant blanks and do your own texturing on them with a hammer or other tool.